Here's a pictorial description of the valve service on the DL1000. This was by no means difficult. First step is to download the service manual from here. Tools required:
This project will take an average mechanically inclined person about 4-6 hours to complete. Don't rush to make this timeline just posting it for time estimations. *The bike needs to be cold* when you begin so let it sit at least overnight, longer if possible. Make sure you have a good work space and keep track of what you take off, so you'll know where it goes when its time to reinstall everything. There are no EXTRA parts on this job! everything that came off goes back on, got it? with that being said anyone with average mechanical abilities can handle this project. The only real difficult part is having to take all that crap off the bike. after removing both side panels, the tank, and radiator, I was now able to see the front valve cover and remove the little sucker. 
Take this off to reveal the bolt used to turn the crank manually. Turn it counter-clockwise to align the cylinder at TDC (top dead center). 
Remove this to see the alignment marks for TDC. Turn the crank counter-clockwise slowly till you see the alignment marks. There will be an F|T and an R|T (front and rear respectively), the marks are on the far right side so you'll have to stick your head in to see them. A flashlight helps. (note: that's two seperate marks)  Six bolts and you're in!   Small o-ring to the left of the big hole is marked in another picture. Keep track of it.  Taking the cover off is easy, and I think I could have reused the old gaskets but I had new ones so I used those upon reassembly. After aligning the front cylinder to TDC my check showed that the intake valves were still within spec, but that the exhaust were tight. Typical from other reports of this procedure. Four bolts hold the cam in place. I had just seen someone’s report about over tightening these and stripping one out so I was extremely careful dealing with these cam bolts. The picture below shows one of the indicators of the cylinder being in TDC position. Be sure to check the timing marks along with the position of the cam lobes to insure proper alignment.   Note how each cam cover is marked as IN or EX. Careful reinstalling those bolts! Use an inch lb torque wrench. GENTLY   note the missing o-ring? Remember where it is?  Once the cover was off (its in there kind of tight so you will need to persuade it to come off) making a mental note of the cam position using the marks on the gear, I removed the cam and pulled the buckets using a telescoping magnet. The shims will usually be inside the bucket you remove, held there by a small magnetic charge. If not the shims will be sitting on top of the valve. Replacing the shim is simple. It goes right into a little spot on top of the valve and sits there. Piece of cake. Now just reinstall the cam & cover, check tolerances and button it up. Take off the rear cover, align to rear cylinder TDC and repeat. Once you've completed the valve service replace the coolant in the bike. (most of it was in a bucket from removing the radiator anyway). Running the bike to burp out any air in the cooling system is an excellent time to sync the throttle bodies, then replace the side panels and you will have completed the task at hand. Now's the time for that cold beer in the required tools list, if you haven't drank (drunk?) them already. |