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The DL1000 runs pretty rough when the throttle bodies are out of synch. Below is a how to perform this rather simple task. The results are a super smooth
running bike.
Tools required:
- Metric hex head sockets and/or hex wrenches
- Long needle nose pliers (11" or longer, preferably with a slightly curved tip)
- Phillips head screw driver
- Some 5/32" vacuum line from an auto parts store (about 2 1/2 feet)
- 2 5/32" Vacuum hose connectors
- flashlight
- Six pack of beer (optional)
The first step in this process is to locate the vacuum ports on the front and rear throttle bodies.
The front vacuum port can be accessed by lying down on the ground on the left side of the bike (side with the sidestand)
and using your flashlight look up into the engine compartment for something that looks like this.
The rear throttle body is easily accessed by removing the gas tank.
After locating the vacuum ports, install the fuel line for extensions. You will want both of the tubes (one from each throttle body)
on the right side of the bike. This makes future jobs a snap. You can use the rubber caps you removed from the throttle bodies to cap off the extensions,
and be sure to route your hoses so they don’t come in contact with hot engine parts.
If when you restart the bike it runs badly recheck your hoses and caps for a good seal.
Once you have completed this task the process becomes very easy. First run you bike at idle until you have 3 bars showing
(do I need to mention not to do this in a closed garage?) While you are at idle waiting to warm up set your idle to 1300/1500rpm
(don’t forget to bring it back down when you are done)
Once you have your bike good and warm shut it off and connect your manometer. You can buy one commerically, or you can "Make you one o them
(spits chewing tobacco") here (http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp). Once you are connected restart the bike and check how you stand.
If you are off on one side or another use the adjustment screw to correct and equalize the vacuum pull on the manometer. Finding this screw is a PITA.
Many people who have done this repeatedly can get by just removing the black plastic “boomerang” but for first timers I recommend removing the right side panel.
This allows you much better access to the set screw. Once you have located the set screw (be sure you have the right one) only small adjustments are required to synch the TB’s.
If you didn’t remove the side panel, you will need the really long needle nose pliers,
if you did remove the side panel you can use a stubby Phillips head, or even use
your fingers (be careful the motor is running and may be HOT)
Your manometer should end up looking like this.
Don’t forget to lower your idle speed
Now’s the time for that six pack in the required tools.
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